It was a few days before Christmas 2016 and I was in the city on a sort of reconnaissance mission. My fiancé and I were thinking about making a move from Sweden and considering an Italian city.

Mario, having been born and raised in a coastal Tuscan town, had lived in Pisa, Florence, Rome and Milan. I had been a tourist in all of them, and had a strong preference for Milan, but he suggested I check out Torino. Not as much of a tourist attraction as the others and a lower cost of living, he reasoned.

And so I went for three days on my own to scope out the cityscape.Fast forward to press time, and I’ve been living in Turin for just over a year.

What I learned in those first few days has developed into a full-blown affection for the many interesting pockets of what was Italy’s very first capital city.

Luckily we found a coach house in the centre, just a few steps from the River Po and ideal proximity for morning runs into Parco Valentino.

WHERE TO STAY

As our views are normally ground floor, it was refreshing to wake up to a misty fourth floor panorama, which cleared to reveal a picturesque canvas of rooftops with the Alps providing a serene backdrop.

NH Piazza Carlina Hotel (15 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II)  not only has these views, but also the cachet of hosting G7 leaders and, surprisingly, a few nights at won’t break the bank. The 160-room property is centrally located in a quiet piazza, close to museums and convenient for walks along the riverbanks. From the spacious guest rooms and a well-equipped gym, to delicious cocktails and aperitivi at the chic Carlina lounge bar, and the peaceful fourth floor terrace, this hotel hits all the right notes. Recommend staying over the weekend, when Sunday breakfast is available until noon, and you can also take advantage of a super late 3pm checkout.

IN THE CITY CENTRE

One could spend a full day on Via Lagrange, with its range of restaurants and high-end shops, but its Turin’s connection to Egypt that is the highlight. Tombs and ancient treasures are on grand display at Museo Egizio (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6).

After lunch, it’s only a short walk to Mole Antonelliana Via Montebello, 20). Named after architect Alessandro Antonelli, this landmark isn’t all epic panoramas. Inside you will find the National Cinema Museum  and its current experiential exhibition #Soundframes – a multimedia education in music and movies.

In the evening, Société Lutèce (Piazza Carlo Emanuele II)is a gorgeous French bistro that’s only a skip across the piazza from the hotel. I stumbled on this cozy gem in my early days in the city and still go back for their Salade de Poulet.

Walking south from the hotel on Via Maria Vittoria, you have restaurants on both sides of the street – ranging from Ligurian seafood at Scialuppa (Via Maria Vittoria, 37), to the humble baked potato at Poormanger (Via Maria Vittoria, 36/B)

A few steps further, on Via della Rocca, Il Bastimento (Via della Rocca, 10)is all Italian soul food that comes highly rated and rediscovers the “forgotten flavours of our Pugliese tradition”. Translation: tasty southern Italian dishes featuring lots of seafood.

Other southern savouries can be indulged in at Sicily on Streeat (Via Carlo Alberto, 7/A), which is great for a quick stop on your day tour. Perhaps before or after hitting the Palace Museum (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 5) and having a look at the artifacts documenting the 19th-century Italian unification movement?

Two steps away, in the gorgeous Galleria Subalpina (Piazza Castello, 27), is the decidedly posh Baratti & Milano, where you can enjoy an afternoon espresso or the famed Bicerin.

WANDERING NORTHEAST

If markets are your thing, revel in the morning chaos at Europe’s largest open-air market. A great place to practice Italian, I might add. Behind Mercato Porta Palazzo, along Via Borgo Dora, there’s a colourful alley of antique shops and eclectic bistros leading to a hot air balloon ride that is Turin’s version of the Eye.

Back through the mercato, stop for a sweet cannoli at Il Gusto Giusto (Via Milano 11/b).

(If you’re noticing a Sicilian spin on my food tips, that’s because the best food in Italy is from Sicily.)

Nearby, on via San Domenico, there’s the Mao Museum (Via San Domenico, 11), which offers Italy’s bridge to Asian culture and a peaceful reprieve from the markets.

Walking back into the city centre, down Via Garibaldi, stop for the best gelato at GROM (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 11). I love their delicious dairy-free cioccolato extranoir.

And speaking of, be sure to book a chocolate tasting at Gianduja (Via Palazzo di Città, 24) or go in and pick your own a-la-carte.

By dinner you may be feeling peckish for a pizza Napoletana. When in Italy, right? Gennaro Esposito (Via Giuseppe Luigi Passalacqua, 1) has you covered just a short cab ride away. This joint is quite popular so definitely wise to book ahead.

SERENITY IN THE CITY

Italy is famous for it’s thermal waters and you can get this in the middle of Turin at QC Terme Torino (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 77). After meandering the grounds, indulge in one or two treatments that’ll make you feel like a king or queen.

Afterwards, I recommend a walk up to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini for postcard perfect panoramas of Turin. Restaurant Al Monte Dei Cappuccini (Salita al C.A.I. Torino, 12)is waiting with a terrace to sit back and sip a glass of Barbera as the sun sets over the city. Reservations recommended, of course.

Oh, and if you’re curious about the aforementioned magic then you should know thatTurin sits on the axis of white magic with Lyon & Prague, as well as on the axis of black magic with London and San Francisco.
Given this powerful position, Turin is filled with angels and demons; positive and negative energy; the good and the bad.
And, yes, there is a tour for that.

The post My Torino: An expat’s guide to Italy’s royal city appeared first on RG Magazines.

I have seen this city change so much since I first arrived in 1994 to attend Ryerson University
Strangely, I didn’t really start exploring the city until after I graduated four years later. That city block radius around Ryerson, from east/west Jarvis to Bay and north/south Carlton to Queen, had been my epicentre of activity. The Toronto Eaton Centre, with everything a girl could possibly want, probably had something to do with that.
It was also very “safe” for someone who had previously been contained to 21 square miles. I had established my new cocoon.
However, the butterfly has to have a breakthrough at some point and, once I really committed to moving from Bermuda to the big city, things seemed to open up. From St. Lawrence Market to Greek Town, Little Italy, China Town, Queen West, The Beaches… Seemingly overnight, there was much more to do.
I landed jobs in fashion marketing and magazine publishing, which facilitated getting on guest lists to the “right” parties that afforded opportunities to meet many movers and shakers. My social scene was bright and busy.
And because I relocated house every two or three years, I felt like I knew every inch of downtown, midtown and uptown, as well as the gritty east and west ends. The big city became home.
But since moving to Europe in 2014, something happened to Toronto. Construction that clogged the streets started to reveal shiny new buildings, a modern harbourfront complex, and too many Instagrammable coffee shops and restaurants to count.
Drake blew up and suddenly it was all about #thesix.
I recently got back to my former hometown and dropped in on some favourite spots, while discovering the latest and greatest. Here’s what you need to know so you can start planning a trip this spring or summer.

ARTS, SPORTS & SHOWS

A visit to the Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queens Park) is a must. A Christian Dior exhibit is presently wowing the fashion crowd, while the Wildlife Photographer Of The Year – the world’s longest-running and most prestigious nature photography competition – offers 100 inspiring images from across the globe that reveal fascinating animal behaviour, otherworldly marine scenes and breathtaking landscapes.
The epic Vikings Exhibition runs until the beginning of April and ROMkids Sleepovers lets children and parents experience it at night! The March 2 sleepover includes a behind-the-scenes look at the museum’s renowned natural history collection of dinosaurs, mammals, and birds.
Sports fans can enjoy pro basketball whenever the Raptors are in town, but better get on the waitlist now for those seriously in-demand tickets. The multi-functional Air Canada Centre (40 Bay St) also hosts pro hockey.
And speaking of the ACC, you can catch a hot concert there too. Pink will be performing in March, with Rod Stewart taking the stage the night after, then Lorde lights it up on the 29. Summer brings Harry Styles, Sam Smith and Shania Twain.
A night at the theatre doesn’t disappoint either. Toronto has been hosting the best of Broadway for years and while The Phantom of The Opera and Wicked will return for summer 2018 runs, the highly-anticipated, Tony award-winning An American In Paris debuts at the end of March.

WHERE TO STAY

A 126 year-old building, and former strip club, in the Leslieville neighbourhood recently received a stylish overhaul and is now The Broadview Hotel (106 Broadview Ave). This is a classy establishment with spacious suites, rich and eclectic décor throughout (I had a record player in my room), and a very social scene…Although I opted to relax in my robe and order room service.
Guest or not, you can savour a delicious menu any time of the day in either the light-filled lobby Café + Bar (loved the Avo and Tuna Tartine at brunch), The Civic’s plush dining room, or on the rooftop. The latter boasts creative cocktails and shared plates inside a 360° glass façade. An expansive terrace opens up in the warmer months, but whatever the weather, these are some of the best views of the city.

WHERE TO EAT

From The Broadview’s east end location, the Beaches area is only a short streetcar ride away. I recommend taking a tram to Beech Avenue and walking back along Queen Street.
Starting at Tori’s Bakeshop (2188 Queen St E) for breakfast (gluten-free banana chocolate muffins!). Then a stroll along the beach and back up to Queen Street for a bbq lunch at Hogtown Smoke (1959 Queen St E).
Then perhaps a slice of carrot cake (my personal fave) at Dufflet (1917 Queen St E), or glammed-up soft serve at Sweet Jesus (780 Queen St E).
For dinner there’s casual-chic Italian at Terroni Adelaide (57 Adelaide St E) or Gusto 101 (101 Portland St) on the west side of town.
A little further west on King Street, there’s the lovely Colette Grand Café (550 Wellington St W), which I went to for the first time on this latest trip. Sadly it was just a quick meeting so I only got to feast on the decadent décor, but friends rave about the daily salad bar and French Onion Soup. Definitely on my next-time list for brunch!Moving on to Bloor West, hit The Good Fork (2432 Bloor St W)  for a casual brunch, before checking out High Park’s cherry blossoms, which are typically blooming late April to early May.
The epicurious won’t want to miss skipping (read: 40-minute walk) to Dufferin Grove Park (875 Dufferin Park Ave) for the Farmer’s Market, which runs from 3-7pm every Thursday, year-round. This is an opportunity to meet passionate local growers and sample organic treats, including baked goods from the park’s wood oven.

MORE MARKETS

Kensington Market is always a spirited scene. Among the food shops and restaurants, there’s a chance to sample Toronto’s vibrant coffee culture at Café Panemar (307 Augusta Ave) and FIKA (28 Kensington Ave).
Not far from Casa Loma (1 Austin Terrace) is the Farmers’ Market at Artscape Wychwood Barns (601 Christie St) – open every Saturday, year-round. Featuring sustainable and artisanal products, the market has become a neighbourhood meeting place and attracts more than 1,500 people each week while providing an important source of income for local farmers.
Front Street’s gem, St Lawrence Market (93 Front St E) makes for a lively way to lunch (Buster’s Sea Cove!). Open daily with Sunday’s being reserved for the popular Antiques Market.
Named one of the top 10 geotourism destinations in the world by National Geographic, Evergreen Brick Works (550 Bayview Ave)  is interesting any day as a global showcase for green design and urban sustainability. The Saturday Farmers Market has grown to become the largest in Toronto; running year-round with a wide variety of local and seasonal food.

SHOPPING

The aforementioned Toronto Eaton Centre (220 Yonge St)  still has everything this woman could ever want. Forever favourite shops include Aritzia for the cool girls, Aldo Shoes, Kheil’s and Sephora for face and body, Indigo for books and little things to style the home. Go upscale at Kate Spade New York, Michael Kors, Swarovski or Coach. Guys, don’t worry, there’s also a Best Buy.
Grab a healthy lunch, or a vegan cupcake, at Urban Herbivore to keep you fuelled during your fashion (or gadget) hunt!
If you’re on track to say ‘I do’, and looking for a dress that’s less traditional, but no less show-stopping, make an appointment at Sash & Bustle (779 Queen St E). The selection is ethereal and dreamy, without being overly bohemian. Perfect for a Bermuda beach wedding if you ask this bride-to-be. The curated group of North American designers include a few Project Runway stars.
For men, there’s Gotstyle with two locations, in the east-end Distillery District and west on Bathurst at King Street. Make an appointment with Konstantine for a custom made suit!
And I’d be remiss not to mention a friend and designer Christina Remenyi at Fortnight Lingerie. Her beautifully constructed pieces, all made in Toronto, have found their way into many local boutiques, Saks as well as Anthropologie in the US, and onto the cover of Italian Vogue‘s June issue.
So that’s my Toronto… I hope you get to enjoy this city sometime!

ONE MORE THING…

If the need to escape the city strikes, one of the most dynamic wine regions is only a 90-minute drive from downtown Toronto. And sweet home away from home also awaits! The Orchard Croft Boutique Country Retreat (2393 Red Maple Ave) is run by a Hungarian hostess who’s all heart. Cozy, well-appointed rooms combine with Idilko’s passion for slow food cooking, which shines through when you gather at her table. Dishes preserve her European heritage, while making the most of locally-sourced organic produce.
More than 50 vineyards dot the surrounding area and there’s stiff competition when it comes to fine wine and food pairing.
Sip and savour fine dining at Pearl Morissette, or opt for a casual night out with pizza and live music at Honsberger Estate – both within walking distance from Orchard Croft. Venture a little farther and you’ll find quaint Jordan Village, as well as Creekside, 13th Street Winery, Vineland Estate and more.
Niagara Falls and the charms of Niagara-on-the-Lake are just 20-minutes away by car.
No question this is an idyllic location for weddings, honeymoons, or, what has become Orchard Croft’s specialty, elopements.

Air Canada offers regular service from Bermuda to Toronto. Access the city via the UP Express that gets you from Pearson International Airport to Union Station ($12cdn) in 20 minutes.

Sara Graham is an entrepreneur and travel writer. Born and bred in Bermuda, she relocated to Toronto to continue her education in 1994 and left the city in 2014. After living for short periods in the Czech Republic and Sweden, Sara is now based in Torino, Italy.

The post Rediscovering an old friend appeared first on RG Magazines.

Couples are either overly affectionate (in the get-a-room way), while others, tipsy from day drinking, are getting into little tiffs (presumably for the make-up sex). It’s as if a tiny cupid fairy is flitting through the cars. Passions have been ignited.

These five towns on Italy’s Ligurian coast have been luring lovers since the 11^th century, and tourism boomed when the rail system connected the rest of the country in the 1970s.

Truthfully, I have been beckoning my partner to take me for about six years with no success. So when I heard that the babes at Riomaggiore-based Italian Fix were coordinating a writers’ workshop for June, I was all in for the all-female affair.

So on June 25, Eurail pass in hand, I was en route to a dreamy destination.

Upon arrival, and meeting Amy – the American expat who owns and operates Riomaggiore Reservations with her Italian husband – I was promptly taken up to a spacious studio with a spectacular view of the ocean. Nothing quite like going to sleep and waking up to the sound of waves.

Buongiorno

There are a few café bars that dot both sides of Via Colombo so take your pick in the morning. Although, the best coffee and food is really inside the tiny pasticcerias and panetterias. While they don’t offer seating, there are a million stairs that can do the job. Fuori Rotta provided the daily croissants for our workshop and I’m not quite sure when or where I have had better.

Vertical Bar is a sweet spot for lunch (have the tuna salad) or evening aperitivo. Further up the hill, next to the church of San Giovanni Battista, is where you will find Fuori Rotta. The bistro is a lovely scenic spot to start or end the day with panoramas of the town and surrounding.

Buonasera

There are only ten restaurants here, but don’t stress over slim pickings. Just make a reservation and relax. There are also a few in-and-outs offering takeaway, but if planning to stay for a few nights, I suggest renting a room with a kitchenette just in case. Mine saved me on a couple of occasions.

On Via Colombo, La Lampara serves a lovely linguine with clams.

If you prefer a seaside vibe and view, A Pie’ de Ma’ – located above the train station – will not disappoint.

Down in the marina, it’s either Dau Cila, or Rio Bistro… the latter has received rave reviews in the New York Times

The fact there is no beach can actually be seen as a good thing. Personally, I can do with out sand and had zero issues with sunning myself on the flat rocks and jumping in to cool off.

However, if you’re the sand-to-sea type, there are options, but go early in the day or risk a crushing crowd.

Hiking between the five towns is a popular day activity and, depending on the trail, can take between two and five hours. Roughly… If you don’t get lost. Best to consult with and/or hire a guide before heading out.

After a couple of, let’s say, un-delightful experiences, it is worth noting that the whole concept of customer service can get lost in some spots on this coast. Keep it in mind, as it’s never quite as shocking if you expect it. But then, if cupid hits you hard enough with his arrow, you may not even notice.

Images courtesy of the author.

 Sara Graham is an entrepreneur and expat currently based in Turin, Italy.
She is also the author of How To Make Big Moves: Relocate Without Losing Your Mind.
When it comes to travel, Sara’s beat is relatable luxury: booking boutique hotels that don’t break the bank; eating and drinking like a local; discovering what the thinking traveler wants to do in destinations around the world. She draws from a bank of rich experiences ranging from rafting adventures in New Zealand and hiking in Honduras, to hanging out in Brooklyn and brunching in Bermuda. Sara is on Instagram @freshpresse.

The post What Happens in Riomaggiore… appeared first on RG Magazines.