It was a few days before Christmas 2016 and I was in the city on a sort of reconnaissance mission. My fiancé and I were thinking about making a move from Sweden and considering an Italian city.

Mario, having been born and raised in a coastal Tuscan town, had lived in Pisa, Florence, Rome and Milan. I had been a tourist in all of them, and had a strong preference for Milan, but he suggested I check out Torino. Not as much of a tourist attraction as the others and a lower cost of living, he reasoned.

And so I went for three days on my own to scope out the cityscape.Fast forward to press time, and I’ve been living in Turin for just over a year.

What I learned in those first few days has developed into a full-blown affection for the many interesting pockets of what was Italy’s very first capital city.

Luckily we found a coach house in the centre, just a few steps from the River Po and ideal proximity for morning runs into Parco Valentino.

WHERE TO STAY

As our views are normally ground floor, it was refreshing to wake up to a misty fourth floor panorama, which cleared to reveal a picturesque canvas of rooftops with the Alps providing a serene backdrop.

NH Piazza Carlina Hotel (15 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II)  not only has these views, but also the cachet of hosting G7 leaders and, surprisingly, a few nights at won’t break the bank. The 160-room property is centrally located in a quiet piazza, close to museums and convenient for walks along the riverbanks. From the spacious guest rooms and a well-equipped gym, to delicious cocktails and aperitivi at the chic Carlina lounge bar, and the peaceful fourth floor terrace, this hotel hits all the right notes. Recommend staying over the weekend, when Sunday breakfast is available until noon, and you can also take advantage of a super late 3pm checkout.

IN THE CITY CENTRE

One could spend a full day on Via Lagrange, with its range of restaurants and high-end shops, but its Turin’s connection to Egypt that is the highlight. Tombs and ancient treasures are on grand display at Museo Egizio (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6).

After lunch, it’s only a short walk to Mole Antonelliana Via Montebello, 20). Named after architect Alessandro Antonelli, this landmark isn’t all epic panoramas. Inside you will find the National Cinema Museum  and its current experiential exhibition #Soundframes – a multimedia education in music and movies.

In the evening, Société Lutèce (Piazza Carlo Emanuele II)is a gorgeous French bistro that’s only a skip across the piazza from the hotel. I stumbled on this cozy gem in my early days in the city and still go back for their Salade de Poulet.

Walking south from the hotel on Via Maria Vittoria, you have restaurants on both sides of the street – ranging from Ligurian seafood at Scialuppa (Via Maria Vittoria, 37), to the humble baked potato at Poormanger (Via Maria Vittoria, 36/B)

A few steps further, on Via della Rocca, Il Bastimento (Via della Rocca, 10)is all Italian soul food that comes highly rated and rediscovers the “forgotten flavours of our Pugliese tradition”. Translation: tasty southern Italian dishes featuring lots of seafood.

Other southern savouries can be indulged in at Sicily on Streeat (Via Carlo Alberto, 7/A), which is great for a quick stop on your day tour. Perhaps before or after hitting the Palace Museum (Via Accademia delle Scienze, 5) and having a look at the artifacts documenting the 19th-century Italian unification movement?

Two steps away, in the gorgeous Galleria Subalpina (Piazza Castello, 27), is the decidedly posh Baratti & Milano, where you can enjoy an afternoon espresso or the famed Bicerin.

WANDERING NORTHEAST

If markets are your thing, revel in the morning chaos at Europe’s largest open-air market. A great place to practice Italian, I might add. Behind Mercato Porta Palazzo, along Via Borgo Dora, there’s a colourful alley of antique shops and eclectic bistros leading to a hot air balloon ride that is Turin’s version of the Eye.

Back through the mercato, stop for a sweet cannoli at Il Gusto Giusto (Via Milano 11/b).

(If you’re noticing a Sicilian spin on my food tips, that’s because the best food in Italy is from Sicily.)

Nearby, on via San Domenico, there’s the Mao Museum (Via San Domenico, 11), which offers Italy’s bridge to Asian culture and a peaceful reprieve from the markets.

Walking back into the city centre, down Via Garibaldi, stop for the best gelato at GROM (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 11). I love their delicious dairy-free cioccolato extranoir.

And speaking of, be sure to book a chocolate tasting at Gianduja (Via Palazzo di Città, 24) or go in and pick your own a-la-carte.

By dinner you may be feeling peckish for a pizza Napoletana. When in Italy, right? Gennaro Esposito (Via Giuseppe Luigi Passalacqua, 1) has you covered just a short cab ride away. This joint is quite popular so definitely wise to book ahead.

SERENITY IN THE CITY

Italy is famous for it’s thermal waters and you can get this in the middle of Turin at QC Terme Torino (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 77). After meandering the grounds, indulge in one or two treatments that’ll make you feel like a king or queen.

Afterwards, I recommend a walk up to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini for postcard perfect panoramas of Turin. Restaurant Al Monte Dei Cappuccini (Salita al C.A.I. Torino, 12)is waiting with a terrace to sit back and sip a glass of Barbera as the sun sets over the city. Reservations recommended, of course.

Oh, and if you’re curious about the aforementioned magic then you should know thatTurin sits on the axis of white magic with Lyon & Prague, as well as on the axis of black magic with London and San Francisco.
Given this powerful position, Turin is filled with angels and demons; positive and negative energy; the good and the bad.
And, yes, there is a tour for that.

The post My Torino: An expat’s guide to Italy’s royal city appeared first on RG Magazines.

Couples are either overly affectionate (in the get-a-room way), while others, tipsy from day drinking, are getting into little tiffs (presumably for the make-up sex). It’s as if a tiny cupid fairy is flitting through the cars. Passions have been ignited.

These five towns on Italy’s Ligurian coast have been luring lovers since the 11^th century, and tourism boomed when the rail system connected the rest of the country in the 1970s.

Truthfully, I have been beckoning my partner to take me for about six years with no success. So when I heard that the babes at Riomaggiore-based Italian Fix were coordinating a writers’ workshop for June, I was all in for the all-female affair.

So on June 25, Eurail pass in hand, I was en route to a dreamy destination.

Upon arrival, and meeting Amy – the American expat who owns and operates Riomaggiore Reservations with her Italian husband – I was promptly taken up to a spacious studio with a spectacular view of the ocean. Nothing quite like going to sleep and waking up to the sound of waves.

Buongiorno

There are a few café bars that dot both sides of Via Colombo so take your pick in the morning. Although, the best coffee and food is really inside the tiny pasticcerias and panetterias. While they don’t offer seating, there are a million stairs that can do the job. Fuori Rotta provided the daily croissants for our workshop and I’m not quite sure when or where I have had better.

Vertical Bar is a sweet spot for lunch (have the tuna salad) or evening aperitivo. Further up the hill, next to the church of San Giovanni Battista, is where you will find Fuori Rotta. The bistro is a lovely scenic spot to start or end the day with panoramas of the town and surrounding.

Buonasera

There are only ten restaurants here, but don’t stress over slim pickings. Just make a reservation and relax. There are also a few in-and-outs offering takeaway, but if planning to stay for a few nights, I suggest renting a room with a kitchenette just in case. Mine saved me on a couple of occasions.

On Via Colombo, La Lampara serves a lovely linguine with clams.

If you prefer a seaside vibe and view, A Pie’ de Ma’ – located above the train station – will not disappoint.

Down in the marina, it’s either Dau Cila, or Rio Bistro… the latter has received rave reviews in the New York Times

The fact there is no beach can actually be seen as a good thing. Personally, I can do with out sand and had zero issues with sunning myself on the flat rocks and jumping in to cool off.

However, if you’re the sand-to-sea type, there are options, but go early in the day or risk a crushing crowd.

Hiking between the five towns is a popular day activity and, depending on the trail, can take between two and five hours. Roughly… If you don’t get lost. Best to consult with and/or hire a guide before heading out.

After a couple of, let’s say, un-delightful experiences, it is worth noting that the whole concept of customer service can get lost in some spots on this coast. Keep it in mind, as it’s never quite as shocking if you expect it. But then, if cupid hits you hard enough with his arrow, you may not even notice.

Images courtesy of the author.

 Sara Graham is an entrepreneur and expat currently based in Turin, Italy.
She is also the author of How To Make Big Moves: Relocate Without Losing Your Mind.
When it comes to travel, Sara’s beat is relatable luxury: booking boutique hotels that don’t break the bank; eating and drinking like a local; discovering what the thinking traveler wants to do in destinations around the world. She draws from a bank of rich experiences ranging from rafting adventures in New Zealand and hiking in Honduras, to hanging out in Brooklyn and brunching in Bermuda. Sara is on Instagram @freshpresse.

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